Another Day...

August 16, 2011

Early light on El Diente

How often have we heard it said that summits will be there "another day?"  It is the counter-argument to the incipient summit fever that grips so many people in the mountains, from novices who know no better to experienced mountaineers.

I certainly don't take pride in failure, but I've taken some solace in past years at those moments when I've had to abort a hike or change a plan on the fly, because on some level I believe it validates that I am capable of making objective decisions when they are required.

Four years ago Dan and I stood at the old miner's cabin at the head of Bilk Basin during our attempt on Wilson Peak, the iconic Southwestern Colorado peak, visible from Telluride.  With his knee bothering him, I went a short ways further, getting myself cliffed-out and spooked on an exposed class 3 traverse, before deciding to bail out.  In retrospect it was probably a good idea as clouds enveloped the mountains a short time later, with thunderstorms following thereafter.

Today, from our base camp at Navajo Lake, Dan and I were set to climb Wilson Peak and write a new chapter, thereby putting behind us any lingering disappointment that we each carried from our previous attempt.  For both of us, this was another day.

Mine cabin ruins in Navajo Basin - Gladstone Peak at center

Starting before daybreak from camp we hit the trail and head up Navajo Basin.  The trail is easy to follow, but it cuts across talus slopes, making the footing more difficult.  From the start we're both gazing up to our right and checking out El Diente and its North Buttress which we hope to climb tomorrow morning.  Today's climb up Wilson Peak is as much about reconnaissance for tomorrow's climb.  I'm feeling tired today after a big climb on Capitol Peak two days before, and a hike out from Capitol Lake followed by a hike into camp at Navajo Lake only yesterday.

hey, does this thing still roll?!

After more than a mile the trail angles up more steeply for the climb to the Rock of Ages saddle, where we join the recently re-opened route from Silver Pick Basin.  From here the views back to Mt. Wilson and El Diente are stunning.  And in our direction, the face of Wilson Peak comes into view across the expanse of Silver Pick Basin, an almost vertical looking wall of rock extending to the summit, but the standard route attacks the southwest ridge and only briefly drops onto this face at the crux near the summit.

Mt. Wilson and El Diente with connecting ridge

Beyond the Rock of Ages saddle the route traverses to another saddle between Navajo and Bilk Basins, and requires more attention for foot placement on the loose rock on this cross slope.  Once on this next saddle we stop for a snack and gaze down into Bilk Basin and beyond to the dramatic Lizard Head Peak and the innumerable San Juan peaks that fill the sky in the distance.

Approaching Wilson Peak

From here the helmets go on and I follow Dan as we begin a scrambling traverse toward the ridge line ahead of us.  As I take steps out onto the exposed rocks I feel myself getting slightly unnerved by the loose rocks that are encountered.  I've heard all the warnings about the rock in the San Juan Range and up here you can't be too careful - every hand and foot hold needs to be tested before committing yourself.  At first it makes progress slow, but once your mind is in the mode, it becomes second nature.  This was the section that turned me around a few years ago, but with the benefit of a great partner and the recent experience on Capitol Peak, I'm confident I can climb on.

There seem to be multiple routes that lead up toward the ridge, and we choose one that seems passable and we progress upward until we reach the false summit.  From this point we look back to see some other climbers on the exposed traverse and observe a shower of rockfall that is let loose by one of this group.  At the false summit the last section of the route comes into view and appears far more difficult than it really is.  The summit ridge rears up abruptly with loose rock gullies that rake the exposed face and descend precipitously into Silver Pick Basin.

Scrambling near Wilson Peak's summit

Wilson Peak summit block

Mike & Dan on Wilson Peak

We drop about 50 feet into a notch on this face and re-climb a steep pitch to regain the airy ridge.  From this point it is a short climb to the summit.  At the summit the breadth of the San Juan range is truly impressive.  We stop for a snack and some photos before a guided group joins us on the summit.  There is a plaque on the summit in memory of the four young people who died here a few years back when their plane crashed into the mountain on the way to Telluride.  The propeller used to lie at the summit but the crash debris has since been removed.

Descending Wilson Peak

As we start down from the summit I feel increasingly better about my confidence on the loose San Juan rock, but from back at the saddle I don't feel inclined to climb Gladstone Peak, a high 13er that stands like a sentinel at the head of Navajo Basin.  We had talked about tackling the two summits weather permitting, but I feel the strong sense to save my energy for tomorrow.

Maybe its the slight twinge of disappointment at skipping Gladstone or our contemplation of what's in store for the next day, but it's a quiet and low key hike back down to camp where we have much of the afternoon and evening ahead of us to eat, rest, and enjoy the scenery.

Approaching our oasis at Navajo Lake