Mt. Sneffels

August 19, 2011

Mt. Sneffels from CO 62

After a great week in the mountains, we plan to sneak in one last climb before heading back to the Front Range.  Driving back up through Telluride and over to Ouray we head up Camp Bird Road to check out Yankee Boy Basin.  Along the way I marvel at the scenery as usual and this time I scope out the Hardrock 100 course which traverses along this route and through these mountains.

The truck is right at home high in Yankee Boy Basin 

The roads in this area are popular with four wheelers and off-road vehicles who want the freedom of traveling off the pavement and perhaps also enjoy the views.  With Dan’s capable rig we drive high into the Yankee Boy Basin where the jeep road is rugged and narrow enough that it is only wide enough for one vehicle and hairpins require three point turns.  From high in the basin it is only a short ways to the Sneffels summit and the views in the basin are spectacular.

Camping used to be allowed at the standard trailhead but it’s prohibited now, due to years of abuse by over night visitors who knew no better and trashed the delicate environment.  We drive back down close to Ouray and stay overnight at a campground, noting that for the first time in many nights, we'll be sleeping below 11,000 feet.

In the morning we drive back up into the basin and park at a pull off on the upper jeep road where we begin our hike up to the Southwest ridge under cloudy skies.  The climb to the saddle goes quickly and we put on our helmets here and start up the ridge.  The route climbs behind gendarmes visible from the basin below on rock that is mostly stable.  As we gain elevation, the pristine lakes of the Blue Lakes basin are visible behind us and the Wilson Group appears, behind the ridge of mountains that separates this basin from Telluride.

Ascending the Southwest Ridge

The climb from the saddle

After climbing for some time the route descends through a loose gully where it intersects another steep gully that climbs from Yankee Boy Basin.  Joining this gully, the climbing continues on looser terrain that requires careful hand and foot placement to avoid dislodging rock.  We stop often to take pictures and savor this class 3 climbing.  After a fantastic week, the climb is going by too quickly.

Dan ascending in the main gully

Mike in the main gully

After we pass the ‘kissing camels’ rock formation, the balance of the southwest ridge appears before us.  From here the rock is more stable and instead of attacking the ridge directly, we angle to the right, and continue on an ascending traverse up the face.  As we go, the terrain is getting progressively steeper, and it seems that we’re getting ourselves onto more exposed terrain.  We angle upward and join the standard route and top out on the summit.

Blue Lakes Basin & distant Wilson Group from the summit

Yankee Boy Basin, countless 13ers and the broad reach of the San Juan Range

The views from the summit are impressive, with the skiable terrain of Telluride far below us to the south and the great reach of the San Juan mountains seemingly stretching in every direction, from the Wilson’s to the south to the Grenadiers south of Silverton, to the impressive Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre near Lake City.

Mike at the summit

Dan on the summit

After a good long time at the summit we pack up and start down the standard route, first trying to descend a lower gully to the main gully that ascends from the top of the Lavender col, before abandoning that plan due to slick conditions, which force us back up and through the polished V-notch into the gully at the head of the standard route.

Descending the standard route to Lavender Col

The rock is somewhat loose and there are quite a number of climbers on the standard route, so progress is slowed as we are careful not to dislodge rock on the descent.  At the col, the Lavendar col route continues on scree to near the bottom of upper Yankee Boy Basin.  After climbing the great southwest ridge, I can’t imagine that anyone would subject themselves to this ascent route.  We return to the truck, completing the roundtrip climb in four hours, including leisurely stops.

Durango-Silverton narrow gauge railroad

From Ouray, we head south on the precipitous Million Dollar Highway, stopping in Silverton for lunch, where I again try to picture the excitement of the Hardrock 100 that grips this place every July.  From there we head toward the ghost town of Animas Forks and up over Engineer Pass on the four-wheel drive Alpine Loop, enjoying the scenery in spite of some rain showers.

Mike on Engineer Pass

The drive continues through Lake City, Gunnison, over Monarch Pass, and north into Leadville, stitching together many disparate corners of this mountainous state.  In Leadville, the race staff is hoisting the start banner for tomorrow's Trail 100 race.  From here it feels like we're almost home with a quick drive over Fremont Pass and past the greater Copper-Frisco-Silverthorne-Dillon area and down the east slope of the divide past the Eisenhower Tunnel.  Mt. Sneffels is a great way to finish the week of climbing, but the trip back to the front range is a great journey too.  I feel fortunate for many things this week, including good weather and all of our successes, but also for a great friend and climbing partner with whom I could share the experience.