The Great Range Traverse

Saturday, June 4, 2011

It quite possibly could be the most fun you can have in one long day in these parts.  From the first time I read about the "premier challenge" offered by an ascent of Mt. Marcy via the complete Great Range in the guidebook I knew I had to try it.  Now after nine traverse attempts, of which six I completed in full, I can say that it commands a great deal of respect.

Numbers don't lie, but what 27 miles, nearly 10,000 vertical feet of ascent, and 10 summits fail to capture is the unrelenting ruggedness that characterize this traverse.  You simply can't fake your way through it and other than a few sections, it cannot be run.  The rocks, roots, and mud are interlaced in a matrix of steep and rough trails that require constant care and focus.  But for all of its humbling difficultly, to be on these trails and peaks is to experience the heart and soul of the Adirondack Mountains.

On Roostercomb with the
Range ahead - Mt. Marcy far right

On this day starting early means catching a 5:00AM ferry and leaving the car after 6:00AM.  I take a detour around the flooded boardwalk back into town and through the school ball fields before picking up the trail.  From the start I know I'll have to keep my head in the game today.  My muscles are still feeling slightly fatigued from the marathon last week and I'm not moving quite as fast as I could.

As usual I debate whether to take the one mile side trip to Roostercomb's summit, electing to do it to make this a 'full' traverse.  From the summit the distant peaks of Basin and Marcy hang far off in the distance and I snap a few pictures before descending and picking up the main trail.  The next portion of trail past Hedgehog Mountain and onto Lower Wolf Jaws is not my favorite-- it is probably the most under-utilized trail segment of the traverse and is steep and eroded in places with few vistas.  The dramatic scramble toward the top of Lower Wolf Jaws always seems to announce that the challenge is underway.  And I'm pleased to see that most of the rock faces and slabs appear to be dry- I was not expecting such good conditions.

I speak with and pass a hiker at the summit before descending into the "wolf jaws" that separate Lower and Upper.  The climb to Upper Wolf Jaws is always a challenge and today it's no exception.  Seems like I can tell that the erosion is getting worse each time I visit.  Some parts of the ascent require climbing up the roots of trees - a fair amount of imagination is required to maintain steady progress.

Gothics, Saddleback, Basin,
Haystack & Marcy from Armstrong

I pass a family relaxing on Upper Wolf Jaws before heading toward Armstrong.  The big ladder at the col always impresses me and leads to ledges and slabs that gain elevation quickly, leading to the summit which boasts an impressive view of Gothics.  I keep rolling on toward Gothics, reaching the summit around 10:20AM.  I stop for a snack and some photos before continuing onward.

The west face of Gothics is imposing and cables have been installed to assist hikers with their travel up and down the slabs.  In dry conditions like today it isn't too bad, but when it's wet, it can be slippery and treacherous.  If you let it happen, the cables can get in your head and pretty soon you're hanging onto them for dear life.

Cables on the west face of
Gothics, Saddleback ahead

West face of Gothics with
descending trail on ridgeline

At the base of Gothics the climb up to Saddleback is relatively benign, but it belies the secret Saddleback holds on its west side.  There, a series of rock ledges makes for one of the steepest, gnarliest descents in the whole range.  Even with dry slabs I crab walk a bunch of it and stem with my feet to lower my body in several spots.  I pass a Canadian couple who are descending here, a bit off route, no doubt trying to find an easier way.  Good luck!

It's a stiff climb up to the summit of Basin where I meet and talk with a Ranger.  He seems surprised that I'm doing the traverse in this direction, thinking that most will do it in reverse.  From Basin only Haystack and Marcy remain, two formidable peaks, but most of the steepest sections are behind now and even though this area is remote, there are many more people on the trails ahead.

Haystack - One of the best kept secrets of the ADKs

The descent from Basin is smooth and before long I'm down the big ladder and passing the Shorey Shortcut trail and the streams.  It is a rock-hopping hike up to the Haystack Mountain junction which requires some focus and a GU.  I've been eating Shot Bloks today and they've been keeping me going up until now.  As I begin the climb of Haystack I'm starting to feel tired and I feel like napping.  Near the summit I meet a hiker descending and we talk for a few minutes.  At the summit I enjoy the cool breeze and eat as much as I can, figuring that I am low on my food intake for the day.  I am rationing my water, spiked with gatorade mix, and I am thirsty, in spite of the non-humid weather.

After a good break I start descending and making my way over to the Phelps trail.  It's back to the rock hopping as I start to gain the final elevation on the state's highest peak.  Meeting up with the Van Hoevenberg trail from the Adirondak Loj it is like a major thoroughfare up here, with hoards of people.  A Canadian couple seems to be closing in on me and I open the throttle a little bit, as I scramble up the rocks and have the final climb in sight.  It's just a few more paces before I'm there and I relax on the summit for a few minutes, drinking an old Red Bull I found in the cupboard last night and absorbing the view of the surrounding peaks before rallying for the descent.

Mt. Marcy summit

From here it's 11.2 miles back and it's all downhill.  Today the descent goes very well and the sights go by quickly as I rejoin the Phelps trail, pass the headwaters of Johns Brook, Slant Rock, Bushnell Falls, and roll into Johns Brook Lodge to refill my water.  I meet up with the hiker I met on Haystack and we talk for a while before I say goodbye and continue my trek.  For the last couple of miles I flip on my iPod and treat myself to some tunes.  After a day like this, I deserve it.  When I hit the Garden parking lot I have only 2.1 miles to go and I run the balance of it, right through town, arriving back at the car by 6:45PM for a total duration of 12:32.

Here's a GPS track showing the route, with underestimated mileage and elevation:  Traverse Log
I wore OR Salamander gaiters for the first time today and loved them- they are perfect for low boots or trail runners.  Waterproof and they keep the mud out.  Also used the Black Diamond Ultra-Distance Z-Poles for the first time today and they worked well.  If these carbon fiber lightweights can hold up to the punishment of this hike, they'll last a long time.

This traverse is a classic.  My advice?  Wait for a nice day.  Start early.  Keep moving.  From morning light at the summit of Roostercomb to a mid-afternoon summit of New York's highest mountain, Mt. Marcy, The Great Range Traverse doesn't disappoint.